Rear upper control arms

Started on the rear upper control arm.  This one is getting close to done.  Still need to add the top plate, shock mount, weld in the threaded tube ends prime and paint.

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Rear lower control arms - Part 2

 Woo hoo, one rear lower arm done.  Lots of lessons learned on this one.

Here are some tips.

• Weld the front to rear cross brace on the inside before you add any other tubes.  It will be very hard to weld if you don't.  You can grind it down a bit before you add the other tubes.
• Add the diagonal cross brace before you add the outer bushing tube.
• Use tubemiter (http://www.ozhpv.org.au/shed/tubemiter.htm), print, mark tubes, then grind.

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Rear Lower Control arms

Started on the rear lower control arms.  I made a quick jig out of 1x1.  The spacer on the outer end of the jig is 90mm to duplicate the space between the factory Miata arms.

I will be using factory Miata sized polyurethane bushing on the outside ends.  The bush tubes are 1.75" OD x 0.095" Wall.  In the jig that you will make, the bush tubes should sit flat on the work surface.

The inside ends will have threaded bungs welded in and 1/2 in rod ends will be used.  The center line of the rod ends duplicates the Haynes Roadster book.  This end of the arm is spaced 9.5mm (3/8in) off the work surface.
Check out http://www.qscomponents.com/12BungRH.html

TIP:  On the leg where the cross tube connects at the outer side of the arm, weld the bush tube last or you will never get the cross tube in.  Ask me how I figured that out.

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The Miata deconstruction has begone.  Next time someone remind me how much easier this would be on a lift.

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